What to visit in Jordan? Which city to visit in Jordan? How to visit Jordan? How to travel in Jordan? Here is our itinerary and all our tips you need to know you visit Jordan.
It is impossible to speak of Jordan without addressing the giant hospitality of this nation. Every person you meet – I should say every man you cross in the street, as most women are invisible in the streets – wishes you a respectful and honest “Welcome to Jordan”. Even vendors standing in front of their store offer to help you, even if you just have declined their offer to enter their store.
In the hotels, the managers and employees are helpful and we were regularly invited to have tea with them.
It was while writing this article that we realized that we had interacted practically only with men throughout our stay in the country. Women are not very present, whether on the street, as employees or salespeople.
Our two-week itinerary in Jordan
We crossed Jordan in two weeks, from the capital Amman, south to Aqaba on the border of the Red Sea.
Amman and surroundings
We started our journey in Jordan by Amman. After visiting the main monuments of the city (Citadel, Roman amphitheater), we used Amman as a base for several day trips (Aljoun castle, Jerash Roman site, Madaba and Mont Nebo).
Ajloun & Jerash
First, we visited Ajloun Castle and the Roman site of Jerash. Both sites are located north of Amman just over an hour by bus.
Madaba & Mont Nebo
The next day, we took a taxi to visit Christianity important sites: in Madaba, where we can see the oldest representation of the Holy Land on a mosaic and Mount Nebo, last place from which Moses would have seen the Promised Land before dying.
Dead Sea
At the end of the day, the taxi dropped us in a hotel complex at the border of the Dead Sea, namely the Dead Sea Spa hotel, where we rested for a few days. Mud baths, cocktails and farniente were our program.
Petra
Then the taxi drove us back to Amman from where we took a bus to Petra. Petra site was fortunate to receive us we visited for two days – a minimum – the site of Petra, one of the wonders of the modern world. After seeing the Treasury and the Monastery, both “must-see”, we took less touristic paths and were amazed by the gigantic size of the site.
Wadi Rum Desert
Then, we spent two nights in the Wadi Rum desert where we were captivated by the beautiful orange landscapes and the silence of the place, combined with the incredible hospitality of the Bedouins.
Aqaba
Finally, the manager of our accommodation in Wadi Rum took us to the border of the Red Sea in Aqaba, where we spent two nights and where we snorkeled among corals and surrounded by hundreds of fish. It was in Aqaba that our stay in Jordan ended and from where we flew to continue our journey towards Egypt.
Visa for Jordan
You will need a visa to go to Jordan. Depending on your nationality, you can obtain a “visa on arrival” upon arrival at the airport, which costs 40 JOD (57 CHF or 50 €).
Virtually every country in Europe (Switzerland, France, Belgium, UK) and North America (USA, Canada) can apply for a visa on arrival. You can visit the Jordan Tourism board website for the exact list of countries.
Jordan Pass
The Jordan Pass is a tourist pass. It includes the price of the visa (if you stay more than three nights), the entrance to several tourist sites such as the citadel of Amman, the Roman complex of Jerash, the site of Petra and the desert of Wadi Rum.
Its price depends on the number of days you want to spend in Petra. It costs 70 JOD (98 CHF or 86.60 €) for 1 day, 75 JOD (105 CHF or 92.80 €) for 2 days and 80 JOD (112 CHF or 99 €) for 3 days.
You shouldn’t overthink this before deciding to take it: just with the price of the visa and entry to Petra, it is almost already profitable.
Note that it must be obtained before entering the country. It’s an A4 sheet that must then be presented to the customs and to the entrances of the various monuments.
How to travel in Jordan?
In Jordan, it is very simple and cheap to travel by public transportation (bus) even if few tourists use them. For example, for our day in Ajloun and Jerash, a taxi asked us 50 JOD (70 CHF or 62 €) whereas with the taxi in Amman city, the bus and the taxi in Ajloun, we paid a total of 16 JOD (22 CHF or 19.8 €) for two.
As in many places, you have to be careful with taxis. Some don’t play the rules and try to make you pay more. Before entering a taxi, make sure it has a meter. Once inside, if the driver doesn’t switch it on, demand that he turn it on and otherwise leave the taxi.
The Uber app runs in Amman but does not work in Aqaba, on the border of the Red Sea. In addition, it can’t really be used for trips between cities.
What to eat in Jordan?
In Jordan, it is possible to eat very well as long as you choose your dishes wisely.
We have eaten so much different Mezza, bowls filled with a mix where you dip in your pitta bread. It’s essential to test humus (chickpea), Baba Ganoush or Moutabbal (eggplant caviar) and tabouleh (parsley, tomatoes and mint).
Falafels are also worth trying, especially if they have been freshly cooked.
The most commonly found meats are lamb and chicken. The Die Hard carnivores will be disappointed: the meat dishes don’t meet occidental expectations. Between a lamb that smells strong and a chicken a little dry, you will remain hungry. We also tried the camel in Petra but without being convinced.
Tea is the national drink and flows at wish. It’s served strong and very sweet, with more sugar if that’s not enough for you yet. Sorry Mom, but there it’s almost impossible to avoid even though you’re not sick…
The knafeh is THE typical dessert. It is a pastry made from puff pastry dipped in syrup, with cheese and butter. And it’s excellent. We tried it in Amman at Habib Sweets.
Money in Jordan
The currency used in Jordan is the Jordanian dinar abbreviated JOD. A JOD is worth about 1.40 CHF or 1.24 €. Note that of course this rate may vary between the time this article was written and the time you make your trip.
In general, Jordan is a relatively expensive country. Prices can be comparable to a European country.
There are many ATMs available in the cities. We were charged each time 5 JOD of withdrawal fees by the ATM in addition to the costs of our bank in Switzerland. The maximum amount that can be withdrawn at one time is usually 250 JOD (345 CHF or 307 €). We have however found the Arab bank, where 300 JOD can be withdrawn at once.
In Jordan, everything can (and should be) negotiated.
How much does it cost in Jordan?
Here is a list of observed prices for different commodities. Of course, it is about minimum prices in a store, if you are in a touristic place, it can be more expensive.
- 1.5l of Water: 0.35 JOD. It can even be cheaper if you buy directly a pack of 6×1.5l.
- A coca/sprite cost 1 JOD.
- A mezza (see here above for a description) costs about 2-4 JOD. Two to three mezza are sufficient to feed two adults.
- A taxi ride in town: between 2 and 3 JOD in Amman, 6 JOD in Aqaba.
Communications
The wifi is relatively stable and fast as a rule in the whole country.
We took as usual a local SIM card. We opted for the Orange operator. For 12 JOD (16.80 CHF or 14.80 €), we had 10GB of data and 500 minutes of conversation. The operator Zian had a similar offer but slightly more expensive.
How to dress in Jordan?
At the Dead Sea, as at the Red Sea, avoid going to the public beaches in a bikini or you will be insulted by men. On hotel beaches, there’s no problem.
Even on sites like Petra, it’s recommended not to wear mini shorts if you want to remain discreet and not to be noticed (too much).
In places like Petra and the Wadi Rum desert, it’s really hot. Moreover, shady places are rare. We quickly bought turbans to protect our heads. Remember to have something to protect you from the sun.
