After Samarkand, we went to Bukhara, one of the most famous cities of Uzbekistan. With a well-preserved historic center, we dig into the history of the city when it occupied an important place on the Silk Road. One wouldn’t be surprised to see a vintage caravan coming out of an alley. The many terraces of Lyab-i Hauz are an invitation to take the time to relax.
Our visit of Bukhara
We took a fast train from Samarkand (see the explanation on Uzbek trains in the article giving all our tips for traveling to Uzbekistan). It takes only 1h30 by train.
In Bukhara, we noted as soon as we started to visit, the presence of many tourist buses close to each site of interest. We didn’t see that in Samarkand. By adapting our tempo, we always managed to pass in front of or behind them to enjoy the monuments and make beautiful photos. Everything can be visited by foot easily.
We did two days there, which is enough to go around the main sites of the city. On the other hand, you will need more days if you want to do all the 140 monuments protected by UNESCO.
Lyab-i Hauz Square
We visited the Lyab-i Hauz square with its pond and fountains and the neighboring Medresas. The atmosphere around this place is very friendly and warm.
Originally, there were many fountains like this one in the city serving as a source of water. But they were destroyed because stagnant water was often causing diseases.
The architecture of this square has changed little since its creation and the place has survived thanks to all the monuments around it. There is the medresa Koukeldash northeast of the square and the Khanqah (equivalent of a convent for Sufis) of the same name in the East.
Stretching from West to East by the North, the place can be photographed throughout the day. Depending on the part you want to visit, you will favor one moment or another of the day.
Ulugbek Medresa
Then we went to see the Medresas Ulugbek, two Medresa facing each other. They owe their name to the ruler of the same name.
The medresa with its southern facing facade enjoys sun all day long. It can be photographed whenever you like. As for the medresa having its facade in the North, the sun never illuminates it. I would avoid being there between 10am and 2pm so as not to have the sun directly above the door and would rather prefer instead the morning or late afternoon.
Kalon Mosque
But the monument not to be missed is the complex where the Kalon Mosque is located! It is composed of the Kalon mosque, the minaret of the same name from which the criminals were thrown back in the time and the Medresa Mir-i-Arab. The square between these three monuments offers a magnificent 360 degree view.
The Kalon mosque means big mosque and was the main mosque of Bukhara. Up to 12’000 people could fit in. It is an open mosque with just a tree offering some shade.
The best time to take pictures of the Kalon Mosque’s door and its minaret is in the morning. As for the medresa Mir-i-Arab, it is the afternoon that the sun illuminates it best.
The Ark Fortress
The Ark Fortress is also worth a visit. It is a citadel dating from the 16th century. It is accessed by a large door above which a balcony at the time hosted the Emir. From there, he attended the executions in the square just ahead.
The visit is quite quick. You can see the throne room, a mosque and a small museum. It is possible to be photographed on the throne if you pay a little something.
In some places of the citadel, you have a beautiful view of the city but unfortunately we didn’t find a view of the Kalon Mosque.
The door is the most beautiful thing to photograph, the best time for the visit is therefore in the afternoon when you will have the sun in your back.
Bolo Hauz Mosque
Right next to it is the Bolo Hauz Mosque. However, it isn’t worth the detour itself.
It also has a pond and is still used as a religious building.
To have its facade illuminated, you should come preferably in the morning, the exact opposite of the nearby fortress The Ark.
Zindan Jail
Zindan was the prison of the Emir located not far from its citadel. Currently, it is a paying museum. Therefore, we didn’t enter.
Chor Minor
If you have more time, you can also go to the Chor Minor, medresa a little outside the center. Its name means four minarets.
In front of the medresa, we could see and try many relics of the USSR in a small market. Caps, jackets with medals, plastic replicas of rifles, one can find a whole assortment of military equipment abandoned probably at the fall of the communist regime.
Oriented to the South, it can be photographed all day long.
And much more
There are still many monuments to see according to your preferences. You can also get lost in the many bazaars of the city, located in beautiful ancient buildings.
What's next for us?
After Bukhara, we went close to the border with Turkmenistan, specifically to Khiva. To get there, we took a slow train over night.
Tips for visiting Bukhara
Below you will find practical tips specific to the city of Bukhara. You will find tips for Uzbekistan in general in this article.
Traveling by train to Bukhara from Samarkand
In Uzbekistan, the train is a very good way to travel between cities. There are two kinds of trains: slow trains and fast trains. For explanations of the difference, you can read our article on Uzbekistan.
From Samarkand, a fast train runs directly to Bukhara. We took a ticket in second class (class with the best value for money) costing 90,000 soms per person (10.90 CHF or 9.50 €).
The same train can be taken from Tashkent. Bukhara railway station is outside the city, you have to take a bus or a taxi to get to the center. Unfortunately, buses don’t run in the evening and at night, you have to either arrange transport with your hotel or try to survive in the jungle of taxis at the station.
As we were arriving at night, we arranged with the hotel to be picked up at the station. We didn’t want to negotiate with taxis.
Where to stay in Bukhara? Accommodations
We stayed at the Rumi Hotel, conveniently located 5 minutes walk from Lyab-i Hauz Square via a small pedestrian road. We paid $ 25 per night for a small room with two single beds, shared bathroom for two rooms. The hosts are very friendly. On the last night, they offered to stay for free on a couch at the entrance while waiting for our train leaving at 4.30am.
Where to eat in Boukhara? The restaurants
We ate the first night at Bouddredin. It is a restaurant serving local cuisine but a little too expensive for what you get.
The second night we went to Minzifa. They also serve local food. We enjoyed our meal and recommend this restaurant. It is necessary to book a table beforehand in order to avoid being refused on arrival.
There are also plenty of restaurants around Lyab-i Hauz. They are very popular for tourists.
How much do the entrances to monuments in Bukhara cost?
What is the price of entry tickets to Bukhara monuments?
Most of the monuments are either free or cannot be visited. For others, here is the price list of the monuments we visited:
- Kalon Mosque: 6,000 soms
- Fortress The Ark: 15’000 soms.
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